This guide is going to be as generic as possible, which will be difficult, since there are so many router manufacturers. Linksys and D-Link are the two most popular brands, but there's dozens more. The steps for troubleshooting any router are generally the same.
I will often give multiple examples of different router interfaces, so that you can compare them. This will hopefully make it easier for you to find the same settings on your own routers and adapt the changes, accordingly. Regardless of what brand you use, I recommend you look at all the examples I provide, because there are tips and tricks specific to each section that may apply to your router.
In order to get the most out of these instructions, I recommend you read the entire guide from top to bottom, once. This will ensure you understand the concepts before you start, because when you're actually troubleshooting your router, you may be hopping a round a bit.
Note: With the exception of DD-WRT which I explain later, I will use the terms Save settings and Apply settings, interchangeably. Linksys routers and older D-Link routers had you Apply settings to make them take effect. New D-Link routers have you Save Settings, instead. Most routers have a button in the bottom right or left corner of the screen to do so. Newer D-Link routers have a Save Settings button in the top left corner of the screen. It's all the same thing.
The Process Of Elimination
You need to investigate to properly find out what's causing your connection issues. If rebooting or reconfiguring your router is what gets your connection to work every time, then the router is the issue. If you have to do this once a week, then this isn't such a big deal. If you have to do it daily or more often than that, then the router may be failing. Don't panic. That doesn't mean you have to replace the router, just yet. You may be able to reset it or upgrade it to make it behave itself.
If however, rebooting your modem only gets you online some of the time, but other times you have to reboot your modem instead, then the problem may not be your router. There may be problems with your actual Internet connection and you probably have to contact your ISP, instead.
The Simplified Process
There's a basic process you follow for a router. The caveat is that while I explain the entire process in a few simple steps, it may take days or even a couple weeks to get through it all. That's because you don't just blindly follow one step after another, until you get to the end. You take only the steps necessary to get your connection working again. If the router acts up again, in a relatively short period of time, then you move onto the next step.
Here's the breakdown:
- Reboot your router and see if your connection works.
- If that doesn't work, log into the router and check all the settings, reconfiguring anything that needs to be corrected. Check the wireless settings, as well. Save any settings you've updated and try your connection again.
- If it still doesn't work, bypass the router and try your connection with one PC straight to the modem.
- If the connection works through a PC, but is not functioning properly when you use the router, reset it, then reconfigure it and try again.
- If it's still acting up, try a 30/30/30 reset, reconfigure the router one more time and try again.
- The last ditch effort for a router that won't continue to work properly is to upgrade the Firmware, reconfigure it and try one last time.
If none of that works, you might need to replace the router, but get a second opinion first, in case you missed something.
Reboot The Router
If you've made it here from the general connectivity troubleshooting you've probably already done this. That's because it's the golden rule. If something, anything with your connection doesn't work, reboot your equipment and try again.
Think of your router as you would your computer. Now, if you leave your computer running for 3 months at a time, without rebooting, it generally doesn't seem to behave itself so well, does it? There's no difference with a router. It's a complex device with a lot of responsibilities. As such, it tends to act up from time to time.
A standard home router has several tasks, including:
- operating the Firewall to keep malicous traffic out of your network
- providing a gateway to the Internet
- acting as a DHCP server, to provide IP addresses to client devices and computer connecting to it from behind the router
- managing network traffic as a smart switch
- and if it's wireless, it also has to be a wireless hub
So, that's five devices in one. If the wired works, but the wireless connection doesn't, or if the internal connection works, but you can't connect to the Internet, these are all possible symptoms of your router simply needing to be restarted. Unplug it for a minute and try again. It's that simple. Routers will do some very strange things, so don't be surprised if rebooting it makes it work again.
Note: It's a good idea, for all connectivity, to reboot your modem and your router once a month. It doesn't matter if you're using DSL or cable Internet or any other type of connection. Reboot monthly.
Confirm The Cabling
The next step is to make sure the cables are correct. Never assume nothing has changed. I can't tell you how many times people have sworn up and down that the cables are correct only to find they or someone in the home moved them, knocked them loose or something similar. So, let's cover the basics.
Power
First, the power cord. I said this was going to be basic, didn't I? Is the power cord plugged in? Are the lights for the router on? Do you need to try a different outlet? Is the power cord that's connected to the router the same one that came with the router? It needs to be the same voltage rating. Don't assume, check.
Worse yet, are all the lights on, as in, there's not a single light on the router off, whatsoever? If so, that might mean it's faulty, has the wrong power supply connected to it or needs to be reset.
Internet
In addition to the power cord, there will be several ports on the back of the router for Ethernet cables. Most routers act as four port switches. So, there will be four Ethernet ports on the back to which various devices can connect, such as your computers, network capable printers and any other device that has Ethernet capabilities.
There will however, be one other Ethernet port. This one is usually a different colour, or it's labeled differently. Instead of having numbered connections, such as one through four, this other port is usually labeled one of the following:
- WAN
- Internet
- Modem
That's the port to which you connect the Ethernet cable that comes from the modem your ISP gave you. Of course, you may have also purchased your own modem, but you get the point.
Note: Apple routers of course, have to do things differently. There is at least one model of Airport that only has one Ethernet port on the back. The concept is that you plug it into your computer, configure it, then unplug it from your computer and plug it into the modem. From there on in, the Airport router can only be connected to wirelessly, which is great if it actually keeps working.
PC Connection(s)
The final connections are the managed switch ports. These are usually numbered one through four, since most routers support four devices through wired connections. This is where you plug the Ethernet cables coming from your various computers and devices.
Note: It is recommended, for all router troubleshooting, to use a computer that is hardwired to the router through one of these four ports. While you can do troubleshooting with a router over a wireless connection, it takes considerably longer, especially if you're rebooting the router constantly. If you do not have a spare Ethernet cable, you could temporarily borrow the one from the modem to the router. Just move the end that's plugged into the router into one of the numbered ports and the other end into your computer. Complete your troubleshooting and when you're done or ready to test the Internet connection again, move the cable back.
Put It All Together
Here is the the back of a Linksys router.
Not all routers will look exactly like this of course, but this is a good reference. The components are as follows:
- On the far left of the image we see the Reset button, recessed so that you can't hit it accidentally. Normally, you need a paperclip to press this button.
- Next to that we have the Internet/WAN connection. Notice how this Ethernet port is separate from the rest? Often, the plastic insert around the jack itself will be a different colour.
- The next four Ethernet jacks are together because they are all interchangeable. This is where you connect any device or computer you wish to gain access to the Network or Internet through this router. On this model, as with most, you can have up to four devices connected by cable, as well as several connected wirelessly.
- Finally, we have the power outlet. That one should be pretty obvious.
Some routers will of course, have antennas, but they don't need to. External antennas are not necessary for a router to provide wireless Internet, just as it's not necessary for your cellphone to have an external antenna anymore, either.
Logging In
Obtain Your Router's IP
Now, you need to log into the router. So, we need to find out the IP address of the router. There's lots of ways to do this, but the most consistent is to click Start, All Programs, Accessories, Command Prompt.
Then, type following command at the DOS prompt:
ipconfig /all
This is going to give you a lot of information. You will probably need to scroll back up to the top to see it all and find the adapter we're looking for. The key is that there are several sections of information, each one representing a different component within your system. The information will be broken down something like this:
C:\>ipconfig /all
Windows IP Configuration
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information and so on…
Some specific adapter Ethernet adapter:
Media State … … … . . : Media disconnected <~~ This would mean it's an Ethernet adapter that has no cable plugged into it.
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information and so on…
Some other specific adapter (Ethernet or Wireless/WLAN or Tunnel adapter):
Autoconfiguration IP address … … … . . : 169.254.xxx.xxx <~~ This means Windows gave up waiting for an IP and assigned one itself.
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information and so on…
Among the many adapters you will find one that has been assigned an IP address. Here's an example of the adapter we're actually looking for:
Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection (or possible a Wireless/WLAN adapter): <~~ Remember, I told you we really shouldn't use a wireless adapter for this troubleshooting, though.
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information
IPv4 Address… … … . . : 192.168.1.100(Preferred) <~~ That is your computer's IP address, as assigned by your router.
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information
Default Gateway … … … : 192.168.1.1 <~~ This is the magic number. This is the IP address you use to log into your router.
Some heading … … … … : information
Some heading … … … … : information and so on…
Note: In XP and older versions of Windows, IPv4 will just say IP address.
I'm Not Able To Determine The Router IP
The two errors demonstrated above are different in nature, but have similar results and causes. If your computer returns a 169.254.x.x IP address, then Windows essentially gave up waiting for the router to hand it an address. If the command returned a Media Disconnected error, then the computer isn't even seeing anything plugged into the Ethernet port.
Regardless of the error, we can diagnose both the same way. First of all, did you connect the Ethernet cable, like we were supposed to? If you did, then it's possible the cable isn't seated properly, or the cable is damaged. It's also possible that either the Ethernet port on the router or the computer is somehow faulty. Try another port on the router. Try another cable, if possible. It's very unlikely you have one, but you may be able to try another Ethernet port on the computer. If possible, try another computer. If you continually get the same errors, then you'll need to Bypass The Router.
Log Into The Router
Okay, now that you have the router's IP which was labeled as Default Gateway, we'll open up your browser (Internet Explorer/Firefox/Opera/Chrome/Safari) and erase the address bar. Type in the IP address of your router, which was that Default Gateway number we just discovered and hit Enter. Here are the typical IP addresses for routers:
- 192.168.0.1 (typical for D-Link and NetGear routers)
- 192.168.1.1 (typical for Linksys and TP-Link routers)
- 192.168.2.1 (typical for Belkin routers)
- 10.0.1.1 (typical for Apple routers)
There are of course, many brands of routers, but those IP addresses the most common. TRENDnet is an interesting brand. Depending on the model, the default IP for their routers may be 192.168.0.1 or 1.1 or 2.1. I guess they like to keep their options open.
With a couple brands of routers, you won't be asked to log into the device until you navigate away from the Status page to one of the configuration pages. That's where you will need the Username and Password for the router.
I Have The IP Address But I Can't Bring Up The Router's Page
There are two things that can cause this. Either the router is not letting you log in because it's experiencing difficulties, or your computer is. More often than not it's the router. Start by Resetting Your Router. Then, reacquire the router's IP address and try to log in once again.
If you still can't log into it, then Bypass The Router.
The Default Password
The default administrator username and password for the vast majority of routers is either admin/admin or admin/password. In other words, admin is the Username as well as the Password, or admin is the Username and the Password is the actual word, password. It's not usually possible to change the Username. Only a very few higher end models of D-Link routers and routers that have been flashed with after market Firmware like DD-WRT allow you to change the Administrator Username.
Did You Forget Your Password?
If you've changed the Password to something, but can't remember what, look around for a piece of paper on which you may have written it. Is it the same as your E-Mail Password, or the Password that you use for connecting to your ISP? I can't answer that for you. You will need to know or remember it yourself. You only get three tries, though. After that, the router will give you an authorization error. You can still try logging in, but you'll have to retype the IP in the address bar to start again.
Default Router Passwords
If that hasn't worked, you can try to find the Default Username and Password for your particular model and brand of router. RouterPasswords.com may help, or any of these sites: CIRT.net or Default Passwords List.
If all else fails and you simply cannot log into the router, reset it and start again from obtaining the router's IP.
Reconfigure The Router's Connection
Once you're inside the router, the next challenge is navigating inside the interface in order to configure the router. Since there are so many interfaces, I can't cover them all. Even the main router manufacturers have variations in their setups that can be quite different. The best I can do is give you an idea of what you're looking for.
General Navigation
Linksys and most D-Link routers will have tabs along the top of the page, with headings like Setup (or Home), Wireless, Advanced (or Administration) and Status.
Some D-Link routers will also have buttons down the left hand column that change according to the tab that you're at on the top. For the Home tab, as an example, you will have WAN, LAN and Wireless, among others.
A third possibility is that you will have no tabs along the top, but there will be several links down the left column. Clicking on one of these links will often, but not always, expand that section into more options. NetGear routers for example, will have Setup, Maintenance and Advanced.
Where To Start
Routers will direct you to one of two pages when you start. You will either be on their Status page, which just gives you information about the router's current configuration and status (I know, obvious, eh?), or their Setup pages, which is usually called Setup or Home.
If you're on the Status page, look for the Setup page. We want to configure the connection, so the link you're looking for will usually be labeled:
- WAN Setup
- Internet Connection
- Configuration
- Basic
- Basic Settings
- Setup
- Setup Wizard
- Home
Do you see the pattern here?
As mentioned earlier, with a couple brands of routers, you won't be asked to log into the device until you navigate away from the Status page to one of the configuration pages.
Let's See What I Mean
This is the first of the interface types that you will normally find. It's a Linksys router running DD-WRT. While the colour scheme is different and it's more complex than a standard Linksys interface, the concept is the same. There are tabs along the top such as Setup, Wireless, Administration and Status. There are also tabs below each of these, with additional sub-sections. We are on the Setup, Basic Setup tab, so that we configure the Internet connection.
The next interface that is very common is to have tabs along the top, but buttons down the left. As you can see, from the Home tab, we are on the WAN interface section. This is where we would configure the Internet connection. This is a common design for older D-Link routers.
Finally, we have the NetGear interface which shows no tabs along the top, just sections and sub-sections in links down the left column. We are on the Setup, Basic Settings page right now, in order to configure the Internet connection.
The Choices That Have Been Made For You
I can't hand hold you through this entire process. You will need to think a bit and make choices based on common sense. It's not that scary. You're not going to break anything by mis-configuring your router. Remember, you can always just reset it and start again, if you get completely lost.
Now that you've found the correct page, you're either in some form of Wizard or setup page that has a bunch of fields you need to configure. Routers without a Wizard will provide a selection of options for the various types of Internet connection you can use.
The Wizard: If the router has a Wizard, it may ask you if your Internet connection requires a Password. This is not something you get to choose yourself. If your ISP uses a PPPoE (Point-to-Point Protocol over Ethernet), then you would select Yes. Otherwise, select No.
The Manual Configuration (no **Wizard):** There are a handful of setups that you can choose for your connection type, but they all depend on what your ISP uses, not what you would like to use. Some of the connection types available on the router are actually technologies that I'm not even sure are being used anymore, like PPTP and L2TP. Instead, you will likely select one of these three options: Static, PPPoE or DHCP (also called Automatic Configration/Dynamic IP).
Static IP: If you've purchased a Static IP, you may have to set this up in your router by choosing the Static option. No ISP will give you a Static IP without charging you extra for it. So, you will know if you have one or not. Your ISP will then likely have provided you with some combination of the following information:
- IP address
- DNS servers
- Gateway
- SubNet Mask
Enter all of that information in the appropriate fields. However, not every Static IP works that way. Some are more seamless than others. For example, The ISP I work for just assigns you the same IP address every time your connect. You would still select DHCP or PPPoE for your connection type. If in doubt about which way to setup your Static IP, ask your ISP.
DHCP (Automatic Configuration/Dynamic IP): This is the easiest type of connection. There really is no setup, because it's the default setting for all routers, off the shelf. Select this option if it's not already selected. If you're in a Wizard asking you whether or not you need a Password to connect, choose No.
PPPoE: This is the connection type that requires a Username and Password. These will have been provided to you by our ISP. If you don't know or remember what the are, you may have to contact your ISP. DSL providers and many wireless ISPs will require PPPoE. Enter the information when prompted.
Note: PPPoE setup will often ask you or have a field titled Service Name. While it is tempting to type the name of your ISP in this field, do not do so. It's not an optional label that you can just fill out if you so choose. Unless your ISP specifically told you to put something in the Service Name field, leave it blank. Otherwise, you won't be able to connect.
All other types: Sorry, but I'm not overly familiar with the other connection types and quite frankly, I don't think they're really in use anymore. You'll have to contact your ISP if you're sure you use L2TP for example, but don't know what information to setup in your router.
What Not To Touch
Your router may have dozens of other questions and fields for you to fill out. In the vast majority of cases, don't adjust them, like Host Name or Domain Name. For example, the router has it's own DHCP server that is required to hand out IP addresses to all of your devices and computers within your home/office network. When you see fields asking you whether to enable or disable that feature, leave it alone. The router is not talking about your ISP anymore. It's talking about your internal network. So, don't change the settings from default or you will probably break your internal network.
Basically, what I'm telling you is that routers have a lot of power and functionality above and beyond what the vast majority of people will use. Just because an option is available, doesn't mean you should mess with it. If you don't know what it is, don't touch it. The default settings for PPPoE and DHCP work just fine in hundreds of millions of cases. The instructions I've given for those two setups are all you need to worry about in all of those cases, for which I've designed this guide. The chances something here won't work the same on your connection are miniscule.
I've Chosen My ISP Type, Now What?
At this point, you can probably Save or Apply the settings in order to initiate the new connection type for your router. The router will typically reboot and may even give you a countdown timer while it restarts. You're done! Your Internet connection should now work, if you've selected the correct options. Once the page loads, click on the Status tab and look for your WAN/Internet IP address. If it's not Disconnected or 0.0.0.0 then you are probably online and should be able to surf.
If you have issues with some sites, but not all, or instability issues with a VPN, it might be an MTU problem. In that case, you should check the MTU section below, but it's not a common problem. During normal router setup, this would not be something you would worry about. You'd only look into MTU issues if you're specifically trying to troubleshoot an existing problem on a router that is already setup and working, but poorly.
If you still can't connect, but you've made it this far and you're sure you setup the router to the correctly, then it's time to Bypass The Router. Otherwise, you must be online.
I'm Online! Am I Done?
Not quite. If you are successfully connected at this point and your router is wireless, then we do have more work to do. You will need to either disable your wireless network if you're not going to use it, or encrypt it,. Otherwise, your neighbours might steal your Internet connection, whether they're doing so intentionally or not. Yes, it is possible to unintentionally use someone else's network. So, adding encryption eliminates that possibility.
Bypass The Router
Connect one PC directly to the modem with an Ethernet cable, taking the router out of the mix altogether. If your ISP requires it, Setup PPPoE on that PC and test your connection. Otherwise, you're likely using DHCP, which means that you simply plug your PC into the modem, wait about 30 seconds and try to surf the web once again.
For some reason, the concept of physically bypassing a router seems overly complex to people when you explain it to them. So, here's a before and after diagram to simplify the process:
If the connection works through the PC, but not your router, reconnect the router, reset it and try again. This is where the Hard Resets, the 30/30/30 and the Firmware Upgrades may be required. It depends on how stubborn the router is going to be. If you keep getting a good WAN/Internet IP address on the router, but are never able to connect to the Internet through the router, then you may and that's a very iffy may, be able to contact your ISP for assistance. There is a slight chance this is actually an outage with your ISP or that they will help you with the router.
If your connection doesn't work on your PC either, then go to Basic High-Speed Connectivity troubleshooting and start working from the Network Card Issues section. Return here at any point if you are once again able to view web pages.
Encrypt Your Wireless Network & Password Protect Your Router
Again, I'm going to have to be vague about these steps, because each router will be different. While most will have a Wireless tab where you setup the basic settings and then a Wireless Security tab where you setup the security portion, not all of them do it the same way.
Encryption Sounds Too Complicated For Me
It's not overly complicated and it's a very good idea to learn about it, which is why I'll explain what everything means and what you do and don't want to use:
- SSID (Service Set Identifier), otherwise known as the Network name - You need to set this. The router will come with a default name that is something really lame like Default, or the brand of the router, like D-Link. Instead, choose a Network name that you're going to remember, but that's not overly personal, because other people can see it, as well.
- Channel - This has nothing to do with security, but it can dramatically impact your wireless stability and reception. If you're in a crowded neighbourhood or you use a device that is on the same wireless spectrum as your router, like a phone or baby monitor, then you can run into problems. Some routers will have an Auto feature, meaning they will attempt to adjust the Channel if they find interference. Otherwise, your choices in North America are Channels 1-11 and in Europe, you have two additional Channels. However, only Channels 1, 6 and 11 don't overlap with other Channels in the spectrum. If you need to manually adjust the Channel, stick with those three, whenever possible.
- WiFi Protected Setup, WPS or Secure Easy Setup - This was supposed to be an automated encryption process, but it doesn't work well, because it's not widely supported. Disable it whenever you can. It's a standard that never really took off and because of that it's more of a nuisance than a convenience. There are other brand specific names for similar features on different brands of routers, but they all boil down to the same thing; another example of a standard that wasn't formalized and so each manufacturer did their own thing, creating a big, sloppy mess of the idea.
- WEP Key, Pre-Shared Key, Shared Key, Passphrase - These are all fancy ways of saying password. Basically, what happens is that you choose an encryption method and a Password. The router uses the Password to scramble the wireless signal with the encryption type you chose and that's how your network becomes secure.
Security Modes:
- Disabled - This is a bad idea, unless you live 300' from any neighbours, road or frequently traveled body of water. Otherwise, people can tap into your Network and not only use your bandwidth, but capture your traffic and spy on you.
- WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy) - You might as well not use anything. Anyone smart enough to snoop on your Network is smart enough to hack through WEP encryption in under two minutes. It's not the password that's the problem. The encryption concept itself is flawed and therefore, very easy to break.
- WPA (Wi-Fi Protected Access) (Personal/Pre-Shared Key) - Now we're talking! This is proper encryption. WPA comes in two cipher strengths: TKIP and AES. TKIP has been hacked, though. So, only use AES.
- WPA2 (Personal/Pre-Shared Key) - Finally, we get to the big brother of them all. WPA2 with either TKIP/AES is the best choice. However, since TKIP has been hacked, you're better off sticking with WPA2 with AES.
- WPA (Enterprise/Radius) - This is commercial grade wireless encryption. You can't use it, so don't worry about it.
Other Security Options
If you dig around in the router, many models will have some or all of these options of which you may be able to take advantage. I'll briefly discuss each one.
- MAC Filtering - You can filter out MAC addresses, so that only your approved devices can log in, but MAC spoofing makes it easy to get around that. In other words, don't bother.
- Disable Wireless Administration - You can also disable the configuration of the router through wireless connections, so that only wired devices can manage the router. That's not a bad idea.
- Disable SSID Broadcast - This prevents the Network name from being regularly transmitted. However, a decent packet sniffer will be able to determine what the SSID is, rendering this an ineffective precaution, as well.
All of these have some limited value in protecting your Network and privacy, but since nothing works as well as proper encryption and a decent Password, let's focus on that, instead:
Choosing A Passphrase Or Password
Always choose a Password you can remember, but the best Passwords are eight characters in length or more, have numbers, punctuation and mixed upper and lower case letters.
Another technique for making passwords easy to remember, but secure, is to replace some letters with numbers that look similar. The number 1 can replace the letters L and I. The number 0 of course, can replace the letter O. Here's some examples:
Bad Passwords
- Hockey - This is one of the most common passwords in Canada.
- ABC4567 - Beyond being too short and completely uncreative, this password also uses sequential numbers, making it easy to hack.
- Temp123, Pass123, Password - Yes, there are people who still use these as their passwords. These take under 1 second to hack.
Strong Passwords
- IHavADoktor8! - This looks like "I have a doctorate", but uses all the elements to make it a safe password.
- bA!nA!na!5! - This looks like "bananas" and again includes all the recommended elements.
- Go away 2011! - Believe it or not, despite having dictionary words, the sheer size of this password and the other elements it includes, makes this a very safe password, as well.
In DD-WRT, like the standard Linksys interface, you click on the Wireless tab to configure the Wireless network. Below that will be two additional tabs, Basic Wireless Settings and Wireless Security.
- This particular example doesn't have it, but even within brands there can be significant differences. If you're presented with options to use a Wizard or Manually Configure the Wireless, always choose the option to Manually Configure it.
- Choose a Wireless Network Name or SSID.
- Change the Channel if you already know you're experiencing interference on the current setting and Apply the settings.
Note: Another quick note about DD-WRT is that this Firmware allows you to Save Settings as well as Apply Settings. Think of the Save button as a temporary storage. With other routers Firmwares, you cannot navigate away from one page to another without saving the settings, or you will lose whatever you've changed. This usually means the router has to reboot and probably some time delay. With DD-WRT you can move from page to page, Saving settings as you go. Once you've made all the changes you wish to make, you can then Apply the changes and every change on every page that you Saved will take affect, all at once. It's a very smart idea.
- Once the page reloads, click on Wireless Security.
Notice that I said click on Wireless Security, not Security. They are not the same thing. Wireless Security is a tab located immediately below the Wireless heading. On the standard Linksys interface, people make the mistake of not listening or reading properly and clicking the main Security heading instead of the Wireless Security setting below Wireless.
Here's what it looks like on the standard Linksys interface and why it's easy to click the wrong one if you didn't take the time to listen or read properly:
- The same thing is true of the Security options. If you're given the option to use Secure Easy Setup, WPS or Wi-Fi Protected Setup or to enable or disable a feature with a similar name, then disable it. You want to Manually Configure your Security options.
- For Security Mode select WPA2-Personal or WPA2 Pre-Shared Key. They're the same thing.
- Change the Cipher type or Algorithm to AES, not TKIP and not AES/TKIP.
- Choose the Password for your Wireless network and enter it in the field that says WPA Shared Key/Shared Key/Passphrase, keeping in mind what we've already discussed regarding safe Passwords and Apply the settings. This is usually a button in the bottom right corner.
Note: Even if you're not planning on using the wireless portion of your router, the safest thing to do is enable WPA2 with AES encryption and Apply the Password. Most Linksys routers will not allow you to disable the wireless radio. The DD-WRT Firmware however, will allow you to disable 802.1x from the Management tab on the Advanced section, which is the same thing.
D-Link keeps things simple for their Wireless network configurations in that you setup the Network and the Encryption on the same page. I actually prefer this method.
We will run through the typical D-Link configuration, but let me take a moment to point something out, first. Notice the first image, which is the configuration of the DI-514 I've used in several examples already. The first thing you can do is turn the wireless portion On/Off, which is great. If you owned this router, I'd recommend you turn it off, because below the Network name/SSID you will see the Security settings. The only security method available is WEP. As I've mentioned before, WEP is not safe. If you still own a router that only allows you to use WEP encryption and need wireless capabilities, then replace it. You've clearly had it a long time and it owes you nothing.
Instead, let's hope that the router you actually own has more than just WEP encryption available and move on.
- The first thing you will need to do on new D-Link routers, as with many other brands is choose whether to Manually Configure your Wireless settings or use the Wizard. Always choose to Manually Configure it.
- Another great feature of D-Link is that you can always disable the wireless radio if you do not plan to use it. It's usually a radio button to disable it or a checkmark you remove to turn Off the wireless radio. Then, you just Save the settings and you're done.
- Older versions of D-Link routers had an Apply button in the bottom right corner of the page. Newer versions have a Save Settings button in the top left corner.
- Assuming you plan to use the wireless portion of your radio, you will first choose a Network name or SSID and type that in the appropriate field.
- D-Link routers have another great feature with their Auto Channel Scan. Although, it might be called something different in other models or brands. Basically, the router will try to determine if there is interference on a particular Channel and switch to another Channel, on the fly. If this hasn't been working for you, you will need to remove the checkmark to disable this feature. Then you can manually pick the specific Channel you want to try. Remember that 1, 6 and 11 are the only Channels that don't overlap with others.
- Scroll down to the Security section of the page.
- D-Link does this a bit differently. You will often only be able to choose WPA encryption. It's not until later that you define what version of WPA you will use.
- A new section usually appears on the page once you've selected WPA, allowing you to choose the desired settings. Select WPA2-Only and choose AES for the Cipher type, not TKIP or AES/TKIP.
- Scroll down to the Pre-Shared Key and enter your Password, keeping in mind what we've already discussed regarding safe Passwords. The challenge with D-Link routers though, is that the Password is obscured and there's no way to see what you're typing, so don't make a mistake. Some models will have a Confirm Password field, wherein you retype the password. This is an attempt to help you avoid spelling mistakes.
- Save the settings.
NetGear keeps it really simple and this isn't necessarily a bad thing. From the left column you select Wireless Settings. On this one page you will configure the Network and Security.
- Enter your Network name or SSID.
- If presented with the option, you can choose your Region, as well.
- Select a different Channel, if you choose to do so.
- Choose WPA-PSK or WPA2-PSK if availble.
- Choose a Password, keeping in mind what we've already discussed regarding safe Passwords.
- Then, just Apply the settings.
It couldn't be simpler.
You're done. Now, you just have to Connect Your Wireless Computers to the router using this newly created Network name and Password.
Administration Password
The final Security measure to enable that really does help is changing the Admin password on the router. The first time you log into a DD-WRT router it forces you to choose not only a new Administrator login name, but also a Password. For all other routers, you need to find this option.
Since admin/admin or admin/password is the default login for 99% of routers on the market, what do you think hackers are doing right now? That's right. There are scripts rampant across the Internet that continuously try to hack into routers remotely, by using the default Username and Passwords. As proof of concept, hackers have even been able to infect routers with viruses, once they were able to hack into them.
Let's avoid that, by changing the password right away.
On most Linksys interfaces, you click Administration and then Management. Change the Password, confirm it and Apply the changes. It's that simple. Linksys doesn't like to over complicate things.
On this model of D-Link you would click Tools and then Admin. As I'm sure you've noticed, there are actually two sets of Passwords on this router. The first is the Administrator login. The second is a User login. User logins allow people to view the router settings, but not change anything. It's a useless concept. When you come across this, change both the Administrator and User Passwords to the same thing, confirm them and then Apply the settings.
Finally, we come to NetGear. Here you will click Set Password under the Management heading. Type the old password, type and confirm your new password and Apply the changes. Why do you need to confirm the old Password first when you're already logged into the router? I'm not sure, but it's an extra layer of security, I suppose.
MTU
How Can I Tell If It's An MTU Issue?
This can be a tough problem to diagnose. I have also written a guide for MTU troubleshooting, which may help. However, even that's not foolproof, because browser issues might simulate the problems that you will also experience with MTU. The best advice I can give you is to complete Browser troubleshooting first. In order to narrow it down a bit more, here's a list of issues that can be caused by an incorrect MTU:
- slow VPN speeds
- intermittent VPN connection
- inability to get to specific websites, usually secure sites such as Hotmail.com or your banking website
- extreme functionality or speed issues with specific sites, again this usually impacts Hotmail.com and other secure sites
What Are The Values?
Normally, the router default is fine and MTU is not something you have to change. 1500 is the default for DHCP and 1492 is the default for PPPoE. If you need to adjust this, the value will always be an even number, less than 1492, but should never be lower than about 1400. Otherwise, there is likely something else very wrong with your connection, at which point you should contact your ISP or call your IT department if it's related to a VPN connection.
Where Would I Change It?
Typically, MTU settings are adjusted on the Setup page, where you told the router what type of connection you use. Other routers may hide it in Advanced settings. You might have to dig around through the various screens to find it. Sorry, I can't be more specific, but here's some examples to give you an idea.
In DD-WRT, it's right on the Basic Settings tab, below the Internet Connection type. As you can see, you need to first adjust the MTU from Auto to Manual, at which point you can then change the value to whatever you need.
D-Link kept it simple, as well. MTU is also on the WAN section, below where you configure your Internet Connection type.
NetGear is an example of a company that moves MTU to another location. In this particular case, MTU is located under WAN Setup within the Advanced section.
How Often Does This Happen?
While it is a very small percentage of people that ever see MTU issues, it is still worth mentioning. So, let's examine a couple of well known examples in greater detail.
WoW (World Of Warcraft)
In late 2010, Blizzard Entertainment released an update to their game World Of Warcraft (WoW). This update effectively broke the game for thousands of people, but only on specific connections. For some gamers, on certain ISP's, their connection became incredibly slow, unstable and unplayable. The workaround at the time, was to manually adjust the MTU to a number significantly lower than the default. An MTU setting of 1452 is what worked. This value made the rest of their connection incredibly slow, but at least their WoW game was once again usable. I remember this, because we fielded hundreds of calls about the issue, before Blizzard finally recognized the problem and corrected it with an update patch.
VPN's
VPN's are notoriously difficult to troubleshoot. The main reason is that the person troubleshooting is not likely talking to the person who configured the VPN in the first place. In other words, your IT department sets up a VPN, that for whatever reason, doesn't work well on your connection. You call your ISP, but of course, what really needs to happen is that your ISP and your IT need to have a conversation about the settings. Good luck getting either one talking to the other party. Instead, know that the MTU size is very likely what's impacting your service. Use the MTU troubleshooting to determine what your current unfragmented packet size is both with your VPN software on and off. Let your IT department know and they may very well have you adjust your MTU within the router. Honestly, don't call your ISP about this. It's not their problem. If you're adventerous, you can also try to adjust it yourself through a bit of trial and error, once you know your unfragmented packet sizes.
One other thing I haven't mentioned yet is that VPN's usually need a few custom settings to be enabled within the router. If your router supports VPN pass through and I don't know of any that don't, then there are usually options in the Advanced/Tools/Security section of your router wherein you can enable options such as VPN/IPSec/PPTP/L2TP Passthrough. These are probably enabled by default, but if not, turn on the settings that apply for your VPN connection. If in doubt, enable them all. I probably gave some security analysts a heart attack. If so, they need to stop being quite so paranoid. The chances of enabling a VPN feature that isn't necessary having a negative impact on either your connection or your VPN is beyond miniscule. Besides, if someone is that determined to get into your connection, you have bigger problems and they're likely going get in through much easier means anyway, like that six character, dictionary word password that you refuse to change to something more secure. Yes, I'm talking to you.
I (Think That I) Know It's An MTU Problem. Now What?
Once you find the appropriate screen, there are usually a couple settings: Manual/Automatic and a field for the actual MTU value. Select Manual so that you can then adjust the number to your desired value and Save or Apply the settings. You probably want to set this value to the largest unfragmented packet size you were able to find by completing MTU troubleshooting. A router reboot will usually follow.
If it was an MTU issue and you selected the correct value, then when the router reconnects, the connection will work much better. If not, revert the changes and call your ISP, unless it's a VPN you're troubleshooting. If it's a VPN problem, call your IT department instead, because VPN's are not your ISP's issue to worry about.
Reset Your Router
If nothing has worked so far, it might be time to reset the router. Here are a few times that you would need to do so:
- You've forgotten the Password for the router and can't log into it anymore, but need to in order to reconfigure it.
- You cannot login, need the wireless key and have no other means of accessing the key, such as through a device that is successfully connected to the router.
- All the lights are lit up on the router, despite there being no cables connected to the Ethernet ports.
- You've already rebooted and tried to reconfigure the router, but it still won't work properly.
Whatever, the reason, let's get to work. Look on the back of the router for a small hole, that probably has a label on it that says Reset, or something similar, like Factory Defaults. With the power still plugged in, use a paper clip to press and hold that button in for six seconds, and only six seconds. That should reset the vast majority of routers.
Some routers have a reset button on the top or front of them. Some even have them underneath, on the "belly" of the router. I've even seen one router that had a compartment that you had to open in order to reveal the Reset button. Those are all very rare, but they do exist.
There are also a few brands of routers that require you to hold the Reset button for about 20 seconds in order to make it revert back to factory defaults. So, the normal 6-10 second reset is not enough, but again, those are rare. If in doubt, check the manual.
If you reset the router correctly, you should be able to log back into it with the default Username and Password.
Hard Reset vs. Soft Reset
This process is known as a Hard Reset. Some routers have a Soft Reset. This is a feature within the router's interface itself, usually on the Advanced tab, wherein you can choose to Reset the router to factory defaults. Don't bother using Soft Resets, unless you're just trying to erase some changes you just made. A Soft Reset will not make a router that is acting up, function properly again. Whenever possible, use the Hard Reset, instead.
One final thing you need to keep in mind with a Reset is that if you do hold it in too long, you might cause it to switch into Firmware Upgrade Mode only. For most routers, holding the reset button for 10-15 seconds will cause this to happen. This is not what you wanted to do.
Firmware Upgrade Mode
This is what happens if you held the Reset button too long. You see, I said hold the Reset button for six seconds and only six, because people suck at following instructions. They either can't count, or they try to second guess the instructions I've given and hold in for a few extra seconds and the result is Firmware Upgrade Mode.
Generally, you need to hold in the Reset button for 10-15 seconds for this to happen. It won't hand out IP addresses anymore. The interface disappears and if you try to log into it, you get a screen that only lets you do one thing: select a Firmware file that is stored somewhere on your computer in order to upgrade the router. While that can be handy, for obvious reasons, that's not what we wanted to do for this troubleshooting.
If you get the Firmware upgrade screen after you've Reset the router and attempted to log into it, then you held the button too long. You haven't done any damage, but you will need to Reset it again to get back to the normal interface. So try again, but don't hold the button as long next time.
30/30/30
Sometimes, nothing works. You've rebooted the router, reconfigured it, then Reset it and yet it still won't work properly, or maybe, you can't log into the router, at all. If that's the case, you only have two more options. The first, is a 30/30/30, so called because of the process you use to recover the router. The second would be upgrading the Firmware, which will be covered last.
Performing a 30/30/30 is a technique that's used as a type of brute force fix for your router. It works with most brands.
- You start by Resetting the router for a full 30 seconds.
- With the Reset button still held in, unplug the router and leave it unplugged for 30 more seconds. Of course, you can release the Reset button, at this point.
- Plug the power back in while holding the reset button for 30 more seconds.
- Release the reset button and wait. In a few more seconds, you should once again be able to log into the router and reconfigure it.
If this worked, you should be able to log back into the router with its default Username and Password.
Upgrade The Firmware
Warning! Never upgrade your router's Firmware over a wireless connection. Only use a computer that is directly connected to the router using an Ethernet cable. You've been warned.
Finally, we reach the last ditch effort to make a router behave, the Firmware upgrade. Think of this like reformatting your computer and reinstalling Windows. It's not much different.
Each router will have a Firmware upgrade feature somewhere in it's options. Usually, you can locate it on the Advanced or Tools tab. You'll have to dig around for it. Alternately, you could perform a Reset for 10-15 seconds, which usually forces the router into Firmware Upgrade Mode.
Find Your Router Information
Before you start, you'll need to follow these steps:
- Find the Model Number of your router. It's usually located in the top left or right corners of the router's interface. This is common information that is usually displayed on every page of the router screens. Here's some examples of what Model Numbers look like:
- DIR-615
- WRT54G
- BEFSR41
- Next, you need to find the Hardware Revision and Firmware Version. Again, this is often located in the top left or right corners of the router's interface. However, if it's not there, you'll probably have to check the Status page. It might look something like this:
- H/W 1.1 Rev. A, F/W 11.0.16
- Hardware 2.0, Firmware 1.00
- Finally, there is usually a sticker on the bottom, or "belly" of the router that will tell you the router Model, Hardware and Firmware Version. Keep in mind though, that if you've ever upgraded the router Firmware before, this information may no longer be accurate.
Since DD-WRT is an after-market Firmware, you will always find the Firmware Version in the top right corner of the screen. Then, on the Router tab under Status, you will find the Router Model, which is the Hardware Version as well as the Firmware Version. In this case of course, it's the version of DD-WRT Firmware with which you customized your router.
The default Linksys interface displays the Hardware Version in the top right corner of every screen and the Firmware Version on the Status page. So, there's not a lot of difference.
Modern D-Link router display the Model Number, Hardware and Firmware Version at the top of every page.
Unfortunately, on older models like this one, they give you just the Model Number. This is a DI-514. You would have to flip the device over and read the sticker on the bottom to determine the Hardware Version.
You would then find the Firmware Version on the Firmware Upgrade page. At least that part makes sense. In this interface you would click Tools, then Firmware in order to get there. So, this is an example of a router that takes a bit more detective work than others.
NetGear displays the Hardware Version and model in the title of each page, as do many routers. However, to find the Firmware Version, you need to click on Router Status under the Maintenance heading.
Account Name? Maybe that's because this is just a screenshot from an emulator, but I wouldn't put it past NetGear to do something as nonsensical as calling their Hardware Version an Account Name. Their unconventional approach to router interfaces is why I've included them as a third example, in each case.
Get The Proper Firmware
- Next, go to the website of the router manufacturer and lookup your specific model and version. Make sure to get the right country. Different countries have different version number schemes, as well. You probably want to go to the Downloads section and search for the latest Firmware.
- Download the appropriate latest Firmware Version for your router and save it somewhere you will be easily able to find it like your Desktop. Again double-check that you downloaded the right version, otherwise you can damage your router.
- If you notice that the latest version of the Firmware is actually the same version you already have installed, download it, anyway. It's quite possible that simply overwriting the current Firmware on a router with the same version, may make a misbehaving router once again work properly. It's always worth a shot, especially if you've made it this far and nothing else has worked.
Warning! If your router is using DD-WRT or a similar after-market Firmware like Tomato or OpenWRT, then do not flash it with the Firmware from the manufacturer, as you will "brick" it. In other words, you will break it. Instead, you need to find the proper DD-WRT version in order to upgrade or reflash it. For that I strongly recommend you take it to a technician or whomever flashed it with DD-WRT, in the first place.
Warning! Anytime you flash Firmware onto a device you risk damaging it. Even the manufacturers tell you it's a dangerous process. You can brick it even if you do everything correctly. So, make sure you have the correct Firmware before you start, because you don't want to give the process any reason to fail.
How likely is it to fail? That depends on a lot of things, but to put your mind at ease a bit, I've probably upgraded the Firmware on 100 routers through the years and only bricked 1.
By the same token, I've had close to a couple dozen routers come to me that were simply not functioning properly and I've flashed them with new Firmware from either the manufacturer or the custom DD-WRT Firmware and better than 80% of those are still functioning today, better than they ever have.
In other words, hope for the best, prepare for the worst and accept what comes. If upgrading the Firmware breaks the router, you're probably not out any money, because it's very likely that router was already on its way out the door, anyway. That's why this is the last step in our troubleshooting. It's kind of your last ditch effort to make things work.
Upgrade
- Now, you have the file you need, you can go back to the Firmware Upgrade option in the router's interface.
- Browse for the file you just downloaded. Select it and press the appropriate button to start the process: Apply/Save/Upgrade.
- The process will likely take about a minute. If it gives you any errors, it may be that you've downloaded the wrong version of the Firmware. Double-check that you've got the right version and redownload it, just in case.
- If you don't get an error, the router will restart itself and you're done. The router will now have the latest version of the Firmware installed and be ready for you to reconfigure it once again.
DD-WRT made it really easy for you, as do most Linksys interfaces. Under the Administration tab you have a heading for Firmware Upgrade. Why can't other manufacturers make it this easy?
For this model of D-Link, you would find the upgrade page by clicking the Firmware button under the Tools tab.
If you thought the NetGear would put the Firmware Upgrade page under the Advanced section, you'd be wrong. Once again, they try to be different. This time you go to Maintenance and click Router Upgrade. Of course, that's only in this model. Others probably have it hidden elsewhere.
If you've tried all of these steps, and your router still won't work properly, it might be time for a new router. Take it to a technician, first. Get their opinion on the matter, just in case you missed something.
Created: 21 Jul 2011 23:58
